>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

>> Rosendo: TODAY ON TRAVELSCOPE, I CONTINUE MY INDIA ADVENTURE WHEN I EXPLORE INDIA'S RURAL HEART IN THE STATE OF MADHYA PRADESH.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

>> Rosendo: WE'RE HERE AT BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK, A GAME RESERVE.

AND THIS IS THE WAY THEY DO IT.

YOU COME EARLY IN THE MORNING.

YOU LINE UP.

THEY ONLY TAKE 45 CARS.

YOU'RE EITHER IN, OR YOU'RE NOT.

SO I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU GET HERE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE.

THEY LET YOU IN AT 6:30.

WE WERE HERE AT 6:00, AND THERE WAS ALREADY A LONG LINE.

THE BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK IS THE MOST DENSELY POPULATED TIGER PRESERVE IN THE WORLD, WHERE IT'S SAID VISITORS HAVE A 99.9% CHANCE OF SEEING A ROYAL BENGAL TIGER.

OTHER WILDLIFE IN THE PARK INCLUDE SPOTTED DEER, LANGUR MONKEYS, WILD BOAR, AND MORE THAN 240 SPECIES OF BIRDS.

LOOK, SOMETHING JUST RAN THROUGH THERE.

LOOK, LOOK, LOOK.

I THINK IT'S A DEER.

BUT SOMETHING JUST WENT THROUGH THERE.

WHILE MANY ANIMALS ARE EASY TO FIND, SPOTTING THE STAR OF THE BANDHAVGARH SHOW DEMANDS PERSEVERANCE AND PATIENCE.

BUT EVEN IF AT FIRST YOU DON'T SEE TIGERS, YOU CAN OFTEN FIND SIGNS THAT THEY'VE PASSED YOUR WAY.

GULAB, THIS IS GOOD TIGER COUNTRY?

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: YOU SEE SOMETHING?

HE'S LOOKING FOR TRACKS.

>> TIGER TRACKS ON THE ROAD.

>> Rosendo: TIGER TRACKS?

>> MALE TIGER IS WALKING.

>> Rosendo: SO I THINK WE HAVE A TIGER HERE.

IT'S HARD TO SEE, 'CAUSE AS YOU DO SEE, WE DO HAVE A TRAFFIC JAM HERE, TRAFFIC JAM IN THE JEEPSIES.

THAT'S WHAT THEY CALL THE JEEPS.

HE'S IN HERE SOMEWHERE.

>> THERE IS TIGER.

YOU CAN SEE NEAR THE BAMBOO.

THERE, HE IS MOVING NOW.

>> Rosendo: YOU CAN JUST SEE THE STRIPES MOVING THROUGH THE TREES.

>> YEAH, HE'S COME OUT.

>> Rosendo: HE'S COMING OUT?

OH, THERE HE GOES.

HE'S MOVING THERE.

HE'S MOVING.

YOU CAN SEE THEM NEAR THE BAMBOO.

ANOTHER ONE IS SITTING THERE.

>> Rosendo: THERE HE IS.

>> [speaking foreign language] >> Rosendo: WHAT A MAGNIFICENT-- SO THIS IS ONE OF THE 50 TIGERS THAT THEY SAY ARE IN THE TOTAL PARK AREA.

SO THE POPULATION IS FLOURISHING EVEN WITH THE INTENSE PRESSURE FROM THE TOURISTS.

THEY SEEM FAIRLY COMFORTABLE GOING ABOUT THEIR BUSINESS AND IGNORING THE HORDES THAT ARE WATCHING THEM.

PERHAPS THAT'S JUST THE RELATIONSHIP THE ANIMALS IN THIS NATIONAL PARK HAVE WITH PEOPLE.

>> ANOTHER ONE IS COMING.

>> Rosendo: THIS ONE IS WAITING FOR THE OTHER ONE.

THEY'RE GONNA MEET UP HERE.

>> BOTH CUCUBS ARE MALE AND MOTHER: THREE TIGER.

>> Rosendo: THREE TIGERS.

SO THESE ARE YOUNG TIGERS?

>> YEAH, JUST ONE YEAR OLD.

>> Rosendo: YOU CAN UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE GET EXCITED.

THEY'RE JUST SUCH MAJESTIC CREATURES, AND THEY'RE SO RARE TO HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO SEE THEM SO CLOSE AND TO--AND INTERACTING WITH EACH OTHER.

IT'S JUST--YOU KNOW, PEOPLE JUST ARE SO--YOU GET CARRIED AWAY.

ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO SEE THE TIGERS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL IS BY ELEPHANT.

WHERE ARE THEY?

THERE THEY ARE, RIGHT THERE.

THERE THEY ARE.

WOW, THERE HE IS.

LOOK AT THIS.

ISN'T THAT SOMETHING, TO BE THIS CLOSE TO THESE BEAUTIFUL, MAGNIFICENT CREATURES?

FROM ELEPHANTBACK, NO LESS.

LET'S CONSIDER THE FACT THAT THIS AREA WAS ORIGINALLY RESERVED AS A HUNTING GROUNDS FOR THE NOBLEMAN, AND AT ONE TIME, HE KILLED 111 OF THESE MAGNIFICENT CREATURES.

YOU REALLY BEGIN TO UNDERSTAND HOW ENDANGERED THEY ARE AND THAT THEY WOULD NOT EVEN BE HERE TODAY IF IT WASN'T FOR OUR INTEREST AS TOURISTS IN THEM.

MANY PLACES AROUND THE WORLD, WE'VE FOUND THAT WHEN YOU VIEW WILDLIFE, IT'S REALLY A MATTER OF LUCK AS WELL AS PERSEVERANCE.

AND WE CERTAINLY HAVE PERSEVERED, AND WE'VE CERTAINLY HAD LUCK AND GOTTEN TO SEE ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE ON INDIA.

INDIA IS A VERY INTERESTING, STRANGE EXPERIENCE.

SOMETIMES YOU LOVE IT, AND SOMETIMES YOU DON'T.

WHEN YOU WALK INTO THE RAIL STATION AND THERE'S JUST HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE SLEEPING ON THE FLOOR--I MEAN, THIS HAPPENS ON A REGULAR BASIS AS OPPOSED TO--WHEN DOES THAT HAPPEN IN THE UNITED STATES?

WHEN WE HAVE GIGANTIC SNOWSTORMS THAT CLOSE DOWN THE STATE?

THIS IS A REGULAR OCCURRENCE HERE.

PEOPLE ARE JUST WAITING TO TAKE THE TRAIN.

NOT NECESSARILY THE LAP OF LUXURY, BUT IT GIVES YOU AN OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE A LONG TRIP, WHICH IS ABOUT SIX HOURS OR SO.

WE SHOULD BE ARRIVING IN BHOPAL AT ABOUT 6:00 IN THE MORNING.

AND YOU CAN DO IT IN RELATIVE COMFORT, BECAUSE ONE OF THE THINGS YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO IS DRIVE IN INDIA AT NIGHT.

[horns honking] GOOD NIGHT.

[train horn blaring] BHOPAL IS THE CAPITAL OF MADHYA PRADESH.

IT'S A MULTICULTURAL COMMUNITY WHERE ALMOST HALF THE POPULATION IS MUSLIM, AND A MAJORITY OF THEM LIVE IN OLD BHOPAL.

THIS IS REALLY QUITE IMPRESSIVE.

WHAT MOSQUE IS THIS?

>> THIS IS MASAAJID MOSQUE.

>> Rosendo: AND WHEN WAS IT BUILT?

>> IT WAS BUILT IN 1844 BY THE SULTAN SHAH JAHAN BEGUM.

SHE WAS THE 18TH RULER OF BHOPAL DYNASTY.

>> Rosendo: SO HOW MANY MOSQUES ARE THERE HERE IN TOWN?

>> AROUND 250 MOSQUES.

>> Rosendo: 250 MOSQUES?

>> 250 MOSQUES, A LOT.

>> Rosendo: WELL, YOU KNOW, THE INDIAN HISTORY IS SO MUCH TIED TOGETHER BETWEEN HINDU AND MUSLIM TRYING TO LIVE TOGETHER.

HOW DO THEY LIVE TOGETHER HERE?

>> THEY LIVE TOGETHER.

IT IS A TRADITION WHICH IS COMING SINCE LONG TIME.

SO MUSLIMS AND HINDU ARE BOTH ARE LIKE BROTHER.

>> Rosendo: ARE THERE A LOT OF MUSLIMS STILL LIVING IN BHOPAL?

>> YEAH, 40% OF THE TOTAL POPULATION OF BHOPAL ARE THE MUSLIM PEOPLES WHO LIVES IN OLD BHOPAL AREA.

A LOT OF PEOPLE, THEY COME HERE TO PERFORM THE FIVE-TIMES PRAYER IN A DAY: IN THE MORNING, THEN IN THE NOONTIME, IN THE AFTERNOON, IN THE EVENING, AND IN THE NIGHT.

>> Rosendo: AND THERE'S A CALL TO PRAYER.

[spiritual music] YOU CAN HEAR THE-- >> YEAH, THE CALL TO PRAYER THROUGH THE SPEAKERS, YEAH.

SO IT IS LOUDLY--REACHES TO EVERY HOUSES OF THE MUSLIMS.

>> Rosendo: YOU KNOW, I'D LIKE TO GO INTO OLD BHOPAL AND SEE HOW PEOPLE LIVE.

>> A LOT OF MUSLIM PEOPLES ARE THE SHOPKEEPERS OVER HERE.

WE'RE JUST GOING TO THE OLD MARKET OF BHOPAL.

>> Rosendo: NOW, THIS IS SOMETHING I'VE SEEN PEOPLE THROUGHOUT INDIA USING.

THIS IS BETEL NUT.

>> BETEL NUT.

>> Rosendo: AND IT'S CALLED PAAN?

>> YEAH, IT'S CALLED PAAN IN HINDI LANGUAGE.

AND THIS PAAN IS VERY POPULAR IN THE WHOLE BHOPAL AREA.

SO AFTER EVERY MEAL, THEY EAT IT.

>> Rosendo: SO THAT'S JUST THE LEAF, THOUGH.

HOW DO THEY GET THAT OTHER PART THAT THEY PUT IN IT?

>> YOU SEE THE TOBACCO OVER HERE?

THIS IS THE TOBACCO.

THIS IS--THIS IS WHAT THEY-- TOBACCO LEAF.

>> Rosendo: SHUKRIYA.

>> THIS ALL TO BE PUT INSIDE THE PAAN.

THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.

THIS IS SWEET.

>> Rosendo: THAT'S ANISE.

IT HAS A LICORICE TASTE TO IT.

>> ANISE.

THIS IS HENNA OVER HERE.

>> Rosendo: THIS IS HENNA HERE?

>> THIS IS HENNA.

>> Rosendo: YEAH, THIS ISN'T JUST MUSLIM LADIES.

>> MUSLIM, EVEN THE HINDU LADIES DO IT TOO.

YEAH.

>> Rosendo: WILL MEN DO IT?

>> SOMETIMES A MUSLIM MAN ALSO.

>> Rosendo: OH, YES?

>> ON THE LEGS.

>> Rosendo: ON THEIR LEGS.

[horn honks] >> THESE ARE THE LOCAL BISCUITS.

THIS IS CALLED KARI.

>> Rosendo: AH, OKAY.

SHUKRIYA.

SHUKRIYA.

HERE.

>> OH, HE'S A NICE PERSON.

THEY ARE VERY TASTY.

PLEASE, YOU TASTE IT.

>> Rosendo: CHEERS.

>> CHEERS.

>> Rosendo: THIS IS REALLY GOOD.

>> VERY GOOD.

AND THE PEOPLE ARE COMING HERE FOR PURCHASING ALL THESE THINGS, THE MUSLIM PEOPLES AND THE HINDU PEOPLES.

>> Rosendo: AND THE HINDU PEOPLE TOO.

YOU KNOW, THE MARKETS ARE WHERE PEOPLE COME TOGETHER.

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: EVEN IF THEY HAVE DIFFERENCES ABOUT OTHER THINGS, THEY CAN COME TOGETHER TO BUY SOMETHING, TO EAT SOMETHING, AND TO SHARE THEIR CULTURE TOGETHER.

THE CULINARY POSSIBILITIES IN MADHYA PRADESH ARE AS VARIED AS ITS CULTURES.

I VISIT A LOCAL KITCHEN FOR A TASTE OF WHAT'S ON THE MENU.

WE'RE GETTING A LOOK AT SOME OF THE DISHES THAT THEY PREPARE HERE, A COMBINATION OF CONTINENTAL.

THEY EVEN HAVE SOME CHINESE DISHES AND OF COURSE, INDIAN DISHES.

A TANDOORI OVEN IS A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF ANY INDIAN KITCHEN.

IT'S WHERE THEY MAKE THAT FAMOUS TANDOORI CHICKEN, WHICH IS CHICKEN MARINATED WITH YOGURT.

IF YOU'RE A VEGETARIAN, INDIA IS THE PLACE TO COME.

CARROTS, CUCUMBERS, ONIONS.

HERE WE HAVE A VEGETABLE CUTLET.

THEY'RE SO POLITE IN INDIA.

EVEN WHEN YOU'RE IN THE KITCHEN, THEY SERVE YOU TEA.

THIS IS NOT TEA.

THIS IS MASALA CHAI.

"MASALA" MEANS SPICE.

THIS IS MASALA DOSA.

CONTRARY TO PUBLIC OPINION, ALTHOUGH INDIAN FOOD CAN BE SPICY, IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE SPICY.

YOU CAN HAVE THEM COOK IT ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT.

WHOO-HOO!

>> VERY TASTY.

>> Rosendo: MM.

VERY GOOD.

BHOPAL, THE CITY OF LAKES, IS A MODERN CITY OF MORE THAN A MILLION AND A HALF PEOPLE.

BUT ANCIENT INDIA IS NEVER THAT FAR AWAY.

DURING OUR TRAVELS THROUGH MADHYA PRADESH, WE HAVE SEEN MAN-MADE MONUMENTS THAT DATE BACK THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

BUT THE OLDEST MONUMENT OF ALL THAT WE'VE COME ACROSS IS THIS ONE HERE IN BHIMBETKA, WHICH--PEOPLE HAVE BEEN LIVING IN THIS AREA FOR 100,000 YEARS, AND SOME OF THE ARTWORK WE'RE GOING TO SEE IN THE MORE THAN 500 ROOMS THAT ARE HERE DATE BACK TO 10,000 YEARS.

VIMAL RAI IS MY GUIDE HERE IN BHIMBETKA, AND THIS ROCK IS CALLED ZOO ROCK.

IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS WHY.

>> Rosendo: SO HOW MANY YEARS?

>> Rosendo: WAS ALL THIS DONE AT ONE TIME?

>> Rosendo: THESE ARE ONLY 2,000 YEARS OLD.

>> YES, 2,000 YEARS OLD.

>> Rosendo: SO THESE ARE LESS RECENT.

SO THEY JUST USE THIS AS A CANVAS TO PORTRAY WHAT THEIR LIFE WAS, POSSIBLY BECAUSE THEY SAW ALL THESE OTHER HISTORIC PAINTINGS DOING THE SAME THING.

>> Rosendo: WELL, LET'S SEE SOME MORE.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: OH, MY GOD.

THOSE ARE NICE.

WHY DO YOU THINK THESE PEOPLE FELT THE NEED TO COME HERE AND MAKE THESE PAINTINGS?

ENTERTAINMENT?

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: TELEVISION?

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: WOMEN SPENDING THE TIME, MAKING THE DRAWINGS TO ENTERTAIN THEMSELVES.

WHAT I REALLY ENJOY ABOUT BHIMBETKA IS THAT IT'S SO ACCESSIBLE TO THE VISITOR.

THE FACT THAT YOU CAN COME RIGHT UP ON THESE HISTORIC PAINTINGS IS AMAZING.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: OH, WE HAVE GREEN AND YELLOW COLORS.

>> Rosendo: NOW, ONE THING I NOTICE IS, THE ARTISTIC CRAFT HAS GOTTEN BETTER.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: HERE IN THIS LATER PERIOD, DO YOU THINK THAT THERE WERE PEOPLE WHO WERE ASSIGNED TO BE, LIKE, ARTISTS?

SO YOU'RE THE GROUP'S ARTIST.

GO PAINT THAT.

'CAUSE THEY HAD BETTER TALENT?

>> BETTER TALENT.

>> Rosendo: YOU CAN SEE THOUSANDS-OF-YEARS-AGO LIFE, THEN HUNDREDS-OF-YEARS-AGO LIFE.

BUT THERE'S BEEN PEOPLE IN INDIA FOR SO LONG, AND THEY'VE MANAGED TO CONTINUE TO LIVE AND SURVIVE AND DO MANY OF THE SAME THINGS THAT WE STILL DO TODAY.

>> Rosendo: DRIVING THROUGH INDIA IS AN ADVENTURE IN AND OF ITSELF BEST LEFT TO BETTER HANDS.

SO HIRE YOURSELF A DRIVER, AND SIT BACK AND RELAX AND CROSS YOUR FINGERS.

[horn honks] [horns honking] [horn blaring] ALTHOUGH ONLY 2% OF INDIANS ARE BUDDHIST, THE MOST IMPORTANT AND HOLIEST BUDDHIST SITES ARE IN INDIA.

WE'RE IN SANCHI, WHICH IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT BUDDHIST SITES HERE IN INDIA, AND WE'RE IN FRONT OF THE GREAT STUPA.

AND I'M WITH RAKESH.

AND RAKESH, WHAT IS A STUPA?

>> SO THE STUPA, A STUPA'S A LARGE BUDDHIST SYMBOL.

>> Rosendo: IS THERE ANYTHING INSIDE?

>> INSIDE, THERE'S A LARGE BUDDHA MONUMENT COLLECTED HERE.

>> Rosendo: AND THERE ARE STUPAS ALL THROUGHOUT INDIA.

ARE THERE NOT MANY, MANY STUPAS?

>> 70,000, 84,000 MONUMENTS.

>> Rosendo: 84,000?

HOW LONG WAS THIS SITE USED BY PEOPLE FOR RELIGIOUS REASONS?

>> 3RD CENTURY B.C.

TO THE 12TH CENTURY A.D. >> Rosendo: 12TH CENTURY?

>> A.D., A.D., ANNO DOMINI.

>> Rosendo: OH, MY GOSH.

>> VERY, VERY LONG TIME.

>> Rosendo: THAT'S A VERY LONG TIME.

>> FOR 1,500 YEARS.

>> Rosendo: WHAT ARE THESE FIGURES?

WHAT DO THEY DEPICT?

>> ITS PURPOSE, THIS ONE, DEVELOPMENT OF BUDDHISM.

>> Rosendo: BUT DID IT TEACH PEOPLE ABOUT BUDDHISM?

>> YES, YES, SIR.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, SO THESE ARE LIKE THE BIBLE OR ANY GREAT BOOK OF RELIGION IN STONE.

>> YES, THEY ARE STONES.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, THAT MAKES SENSE.

SO RAKESH, WE'RE WALKING AROUND THE STUPA CLOCKWISE.

>> CLOCKWISE.

>> Rosendo: WHY?

>> IT'S VERY GOOD IN THIS DIRECTION.

>> Rosendo: GOOD LUCK.

>> YES, GOOD LUCK.

>> Rosendo: WE WALK AROUND THREE TIMES; WHY THREE?

>> THREE: ONE IS RELIGION, ONE IS COMMUNITY, AND ONE IS KNOWLEDGE: BUDDHA, DHARMA, SANGHA.

>> Rosendo: NOW, THIS IS THE NORTH GATE.

>> YES, NORTH GATE'S A VERY BEAUTIFUL CARVING, SIR.

>> Rosendo: SO TELL ME ABOUT THE FEATURES.

WHAT DOES IT REPRESENT?

>> THREE PANELS, SAME MEANING: BUDDHA, DHARMA, SANGHA.

>> Rosendo: OH, I CAN SEE THAT THE FIRST PANEL HAS THE BODHI TREE.

>> BODHI TREE.

>> Rosendo: THAT IS BUDDHA.

>> BUDDHA.

>> Rosendo: AND THE SECOND PANEL-- >> SECOND PANEL ON THE LEFT, BODHI TREE.

>> Rosendo: WHERE HE REACHES ENLIGHTENMENT.

>> YES, ENLIGHTENMENT TREE.

>> Rosendo: RELIGION.

THIS IS DHARMA.

AND THE BOTTOM-- >> YES, THE THIRD PANEL, THIS ONE, YOU HAVE CARVED DETAILS WHAT THE PREVIOUS LIFE USED TO BE.

>> Rosendo: REINCARNATION?

>> YES, REINCARNATION.

>> Rosendo: SO THAT'S COMMUNITY.

YOU KNOW, I'M CURIOUS.

SINCE BUDDHISM HAD SUCH A GOOD START, WHY DO YOU THINK THAT IT COMPLETELY DIED OUT?

>> SO BRAHMAN NOT LIKE LOWER-CASTE PEOPLE.

>> Rosendo: RIGHT.

>> SO LOWER CASTE IN THE OTHER RELIGION TO START.

SO IN BUDDHISM, NO CASTE SYSTEM.

>> Rosendo: RIGHT.

>> ALL PEOPLE THE SAME.

>> Rosendo: YOU WOULD THINK THAT ALL OF INDIA WOULD BE BUDDHIST, BECAUSE THEN YOU WOULD BE NO CASTE.

>> SO RECOVERED--RECOVERED POWER.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, SO IT'S CONNECTED TO THE POWER.

>> YES, CONNECTED TO POWER.

>> Rosendo: RELIGION, POWER.

AND AS THEY BECAME MORE POWERFUL, THEIR FOLLOWERS BECAME MORE POWERFUL.

THEY DID AWAY WITH BUDDHISM.

AND THAT'S WHY 85% OF THE PEOPLE TODAY ARE HINDUS HERE IN INDIA.

AND BUDDHISM IS JUST VERY, VERY SMALL.

>> VERY SMALL.

>> Rosendo: SO THAT MAKES MORE SENSE TO ME NOW.

I UNDERSTAND NOW.

ONE OF THE SEVEN SACRED CITIES FOR HINDUS, UJJAIN IS THE SITE OF THE MAHAKALESHWAR TEMPLE, AMONG THE MOST HOLY SHIVA TEMPLES.

BEFORE VISITING, IT IS NECESSARY TO PICK UP AN APPROPRIATE OFFERING.

NAMASTE, NAMASTE.

>> [speaking foreign language] >> Rosendo: SO SHE'S MAKING THESE GARLANDS VERY SIMPLY BY TAKING THE FLOWERS AND STRINGING THEM ON.

THE FLOWERS ARE, THROUGHOUT INDIA, USED AS AN OFFERING AT MANY OF THE TEMPLES.

>> THESE NAME ARE... [speaking foreign language] >> Rosendo: YOU MEAN THE COLLECTION OF FLOWERS?

>> YEAH, FLOWERS.

IS A ROSE... [speaking foreign language] >> Rosendo: HOW MUCH IS THIS?

>> 5 RUPEES ONLY.

>> Rosendo: 5 RUPEES?

HERE WE GO.

NAMASTE.

LET'S GO.

AT THE TEMPLE, I DISCOVER THAT PARTICIPATING IN A RELIGIOUS RITE IN INDIA CAN DEMAND ONE'S TOTAL SENSORY IMMERSION.

>> THIS WAY YOU GO.

>> Rosendo: THIS WAY I COME.

>> [speaking foreign language] [people speaking at once] >> Rosendo: I DON'T KNOW WHAT I DID.

I DON'T KNOW HOW I DID IT.

I DON'T KNOW IF I DID IT RIGHT.

I DON'T EVEN KNOW WHY I DID IT.

BUT JUST BEING IN THERE IS WHAT WAS IMPORTANT.

BEING A PART OF THAT ENERGY IS INDIA.

CONFUSION CAN LEAD TO ENLIGHTENMENT.

AND IN THE TOWN OF MAHAKALESHWAR, THE PATH MAY LEAD TO THE GATS ALONG THE SACRED NARMADA RIVER.

I FIRST CAME TO INDIA 20 YEARS AGO, AND I REMEMBER IT AS A VERY SPIRITUAL, LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE.

DURING THIS VISIT, SOMETIMES THE JOURNEY HAS GOTTEN IN THE WAY OF THE EXPERIENCE.

COMING DOWN TODAY TO THE GATS HERE AND JUST WATCHING THE PEOPLE SIMPLY WASHING IN THE RIVER AND OFFERING THEIR BLESSINGS TO THE RIVER REMINDED ME OF WHY I CAME AND WHAT I WAS JUST SUPPOSED TO TAKE AWAY FROM THIS PLACE.

[thoughtful instrumental music] ♪ ♪ IN THE HINDU FAITH, ALL OF THE GODS THAT ARE PART OF THEIR PANTHEON OF GODS ARE ALL MANIFESTATIONS OF ONE GOD, BRAHMA.

THIS MORNING HERE ALONG THE GATS REMINDS ME THAT ALL OF THESE PEOPLE AND ALL OF US ARE A MANIFESTATION OF ONE GOD.

IT'S WHAT REALLY CENTERS YOU AND MAKES YOU FEEL CONNECTED TO NOT JUST EVERYBODY BUT TO EVERYTHING AROUND YOU.

NAMASTE.

[sweet instrumental music] ♪ ♪ IN INDIA, THE LIFE OF THE GODS IS NOT JUST A SUBJECT OF CONTEMPLATION BUT OF CELEBRATION.

SUCH IS THE SPIRIT BEHIND THE ANNUAL DEWALI FESTIVAL, WHICH, LIKE CHRISTMAS, IS A FESTIVAL OF LIGHT.

[exciting instrumental music] ♪ ♪ I'M IN INDORE FOR THE DEWALI FESTIVAL.

WHAT'S A DEWALI FESTIVAL?

FROM WHAT I CAN TELL, IT'S CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEARS AND EVERY HOLIDAY THAT YOU EVER THOUGHT OF.

THE DEWALI FESTIVAL IS BASED ON RAMA GOING AND RECAPTURING HIS KIDNAPPED WIFE AND BRINGING HER BACK TO INDIA.

BUT IT'S ALSO A FESTIVAL THAT CELEBRATES LAKSHMI.

LAKSHMI IS THE GODDESS OF WEALTH, BUT SHE HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE DEWALI FESTIVAL, EXCEPT THEY THROW HER IN THERE.

WHY?

BECAUSE IT'S INDIA, AND INDIA'S MORE OF EVERYTHING YOU EVER THOUGHT OR DREAMT OF.

AND IT IS EXCITING AND FUN, AND YOU WANT TO BE A PART OF THIS EXPERIENCE.

HERE'S ANOTHER VERY IMPORTANT PART OF THE FESTIVAL, AND YOU'LL SEE CARTS WITH ALL SORTS OF DIFFERENT COLORED SANDS.

AND THEY USE IT TO MAKE A DESIGN IN FRONT OF THEIR HOUSE CALLED RANGOLI.

IT WELCOMES THE GODDESS LAKSHMI.

>> [speaking foreign language] >> Rosendo: THERE ARE SOME PEOPLE IN INDIA WHO CAN ONLY AFFORD TO BUY THINGS ONCE A YEAR, AND THIS IS THE DAY THAT THEY SAVE UP TO.

THEY CAN BUY SOMETHING FOR EACH OTHER.

OH, HERE'S ONE OF THE SWEETS.

IT'S CHURNED MILK.

OH, LOOKS LIKE PUDDING.

IT'S ONE OF THE SPECIAL FOODS FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

VERY SWEET.

VERY NICE.

AH.

THANK YOU.

A LITTLE FLOUR BALL.

IT TASTES LIKE A PANCAKE, A VERY SWEET PANCAKE.

HERE'S ANOTHER ONE OF THE SPECIAL FOODS FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

THIS IS KACHORI.

HERE WE ARE.

WOW.

THAT IS HOT!

I DIDN'T HAVE TO PAY ANYTHING.

HE SAYS I'M HIS ELDER BROTHER.

I THINK THAT'S A COMPLIMENT.

WE'RE REALLY NOT THAT MUCH DIFFERENT.

WE HAVE SPECIAL FOODS THAT WE EAT AT CHRISTMASTIME IN MY FAMILY, MY BACKGROUND BEING CUBA.

NOCHEBUENE IS CHRISTMAS EVE.

WE HAVE PORK.

WE HAVE BLACK BEANS.

WE HAVE RICE.

WE HAVE ALL SORTS OF THINGS.

HERE WE ARE IN INDIA, AND IT'S THE SAME IDEA.

[firecrackers popping] LOOKING FOR SOMETHING QUIET, SERENE, AND PEACEFUL?

WRONG PARTY.

[firecrackers popping] THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY REDISCOVERY OF INDIA.

PEOPLE ASK ME, WHAT IS MY FAVORITE DESTINATION?

THEY ARE OFTEN SURPRISED WHEN I SAY INDIA.

THEIR PRECONCEIVED IDEAS OF POVERTY, THIRD-WORLD FACILITIES, HUSTLERS, AND MASSES OF PEOPLE PUT THEM OFF.

IT'S TRUE.

INDIA IS AN ADVENTURE.

AND WHILE YOU MAY TREK THROUGH ANCIENT FORESTS, SCALE THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAKS, AND FORGE GREAT RIVERS HERE, FOREMOST, INDIA IS AN ADVENTURE OF THE BODY, MIND, AND SPIRIT.

SINCE 1969, I'VE TRAVELED TO BECOME MORE MYSELF, TO DISCOVER IN THE LIVES OF OTHERS A GREATER UNDERSTANDING OF WHO I AM.

AND WHILE AT SOME DESTINATIONS IT'S POSSIBLE TO MISS THE EXPERIENCE, TRY AS YOU MIGHT, YOU CANNOT BE DETACHED FROM INDIA.

SIMPLY BEING HERE CHALLENGES YOU IN WAYS YOU NEVER IMAGINED AND ULTIMATELY CHANGES YOU.

PERHAPS IT'S NOT FOR EVERYONE.

BUT FOR THE SERIOUS TRAVELER, IT'S THRILLING, OFFERS THE OPPORTUNITY FOR ENLIGHTENMENT, AND IS THE DEFINITION OF WHAT A TRAVEL ADVENTURE TRULY SHOULD BE.

TILL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

TO ORDER A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, VISIT: OR CALL: VISIT US AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET TO LEARN MORE ABOUT TRAVELSCOPE AND TO JOIN JOSEPH'S WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES ON HIS BLOG.

KEEP IN TOUCH WITH US: 888-876-3399, OR EMAIL US AT: Captioning by CaptionMax www.captionmax.com >> Rosendo: JOIN ME NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE WHEN I CELEBRATE ROMANCE AND CULTURE ON THE SUNBAKED ISLANDS OF FIJI.

[horns honking] I MADE IT!