JACQUES PEPIN IS A MAN OF BOUNDLESS AND SEEMINGLY INEXHAUSTIBLE ENERGY.

HE'S AUTHOR OF SEVEN BOOKS, COUNTLESS MAGAZINE AND NEWSPAPER ARTICLES AND HOSTS HIS OWN TELEVISION PROGRAMS.

NOT ONLY A MASTER CHEF, BUT A MASTER TEACHER JACQUES IS DEAN OF STUDIES AT THE FRENCH CULINARY INSTITUTE IN NEW YORK.

A HIGHLY REGARDED PROFESSIONAL INSTRUCTOR AND LECTURER ON GASTRONOMY AT BOSTON UNIVERSITY.

AND HE'S CONSTANTLY TEACHING AND DEMONSTRATING HIS TECHNICAL VIRTUOSITY.

"WHEN YOU'RE A PROFESSIONAL COOK, YOU BECOME A GOOD CRAFTSMAN FIRST, YOU REPEAT AND REPEAT AND REPEAT, UNTIL YOU HANDS KNOW WHAT TO DO WITHOUT YOU HAVING TO THINK ABOUT IT".

CHEF JACQUES IS ABOUT TO TEACH US HIS VERSION OF A SPLENDID FRENCH CLASSIC: HE WILL SHOW US IN DETAIL THE MAKING OF PUFF PASTRY AND HIS INGENIOUS METHOD OF FORMING A PUFF PASTRY CRUST, A VOL-AU-VENT.

THEN WE'RE TO WITNESS THE CARE, FEEDING AND BRAISING OF SWEETBREADS.

AND HOW TO DEAL WITH THE LARGE, BLACK, FRESH, FRENCH TRUFFLE.

AND FINALLY HOW TO MAKE A REALLY GREAT SAUCE.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A DISH FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO COOK OR WHO LOVE TO EAT WHEN SOMEBODY ELSE COOKS IT.

FIRST THE PUFF PASTRY.

HERE IT IS RAW, IT LOOKS JUST LIKE A PLAIN PIECE OF PASTRY DOUGH.

AND HERE IT IS BAKED.

IT PUFFS UP IN THE OVEN BECAUSE OF THE WAY IT IS ROLLED OUT, FOLDED UP, AND ROLLED OUT AND FOLDED UP, UNTIL IT CONSISTS OF HUNDREDS OF PAPER-THIN LAYERS OF DOUGH, SANDWICHED BETWEEN HUNDREDS OF PAPER-THIN LAYERS OF BUTTER.

HERE'S THE WAY JACQUES PEPIN MAKES HIS.

WE'RE GOING TO DO A CLASSIC PUFF PASTE..G TO DO A CLF ONE THAT YOU CAN USE FOR HUNDREDS OF DIFFERENT THINGS.

THIS IS ALL PURPOSE FLOUR AND DIFFERENT FLOURS WILL INDICATE DIFFERENT TYPE OF GLUTEN.

THIS IS ALL PURPOSE FLOUR, BUTTER, WATER AND A DASH OF SALT.

WE START WITH A POUND OF FLOUR.

3 CUPS OF FLOUR IS A POUND OF FLOUR, IF YOU TAKE IT THE WAY I'M TAKING IT.

SO I HAVE A POUND OF FLOUR HERE, A DASH OF SALT AND SOME WATER.

AND I START WITH ABOUT A GOOD CUP OF WATER.

DEPENDING WHETHER IT'S VERY HUMID OR VERY DRY, THAT WILL DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF MOISTURE IN THERE.

SO YOU WANT A DOUGH FIRST, I NEED A LITTLE MORE WATER.

OKAY...UNTIL IT PRACTICALLY FORMS INTO A BALL.

WE'RE GOING TO ROLL THAT ON THE TABLE AND I HAVE 3/4 OF A POUND OF BUTTER HERE.

SO I NEED A LITTLE BIT OF FLOUR TO ROLL THAT INTO A LARGE, 3/8" THICK RECTANGLE.

A ROLLING PIN.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF ROLLING PINS.

I LIKE A ROLLING PIN WHICH IS STRAIGHT AND EQUAL SIZE ALL OVER.

BUT BELIEVE ME IF YOU WERE TO DO A 2 OR 3 LB.

PUFF PASTE YOU'D PROBABLY GET ONE WITH BALL BEARINGS.

SO I SPREAD THIS OUT TO 3/8" THICK.

AND I'M GOING TO ARRANGE MY BUTTER ON 2/3 OF THE DOUGH.

AND I HAVE 3 STICKS OF BUTTER, EACH CUT INTO 4 PIECES.

MEANING THAT I HAVE 3, 6, PIECES OF BUTTER.

YOU WANT TO BE NOT QUITE UP TO THE EDGE.

TAKE 1/3 OF THE DOUGH WHICH IS NOT COVERED, COVER THAT ON TOP AND BRING THAT BACK ON THE OTHER END.

SO NOW I HAVE ALREADY STARTED THE PROCESS OF PUFF PASTE.

PUTTING A LAYER OF BREAD AND A LAYER OF BUTTER, FAT.

WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT WHEN YOU PUT IT IN THE OVEN, THE LIQUID IN THE BREAD DOUGH DEVELOPS INTO STEAM.

BUT YOU HAVE ALL THOSE LAYERS OF BUTTER THAT WILL WATERPROOF THE DOUGH.

SO IT'S GOING TO START PUSHING AND DEVELOPING INTO A MULTI-LAYER EFFECT.

OR WHAT WE CALL, "PUFF PASTE".

SO I BREAK IT AND EXTEND IT INTO A LARGE RECTANGLE.

NOW THE DOUGH HAS TO BE COLD, EVERYTHING HAS TO BE COLD.

OTHERWISE THE BUTTER MAY TEND TO BREAK RIGHT THROUGH THE DOUGH, AND YOU DON'T WANT THIS.

SO LIFT IT UP TO BE SURE THAT IT'S SLIDING UNDERNEATH.

ROLL OUT ALL SIDES.

FOLD EACH END OF THE DOUGH INTO THE CENTER.

AND FOLDING IT IN TWO AGAIN.

THIS GIVES ME 4 LAYERS OF DOUGH, WORK IN MULTIPLIES OF 4.

WHEN YOU GET TO A DOUGH WHICH IS TOTALLY FINISHED, THAT IS I'M ROLLING IT 4 TIMES, EACH TIME FOLDING.

I WILL HAVE CLOSE TO 1500 LAYERS OF BREAD DOUGH AND FAT.

NOW, I GRAB IT, REFRIGERATE IT.

I HAVE ONE HERE WHICH HAS BEEN REFRIGERATED ALREADY, AND I HAVE ALREADY GIVEN 2 MORE TURNS TO THIS ONE.

I DID EXACTLY AS I DID FOR THE FIRST ONE.

LET IT REST 1 HOUR OR SO, ROLL IT AGAIN, TWICE, FOLD IT.

NOW IT'S READY TO BE USED.

AND I'M GOING TO DO OUR VOL-AU-VENT.

ROLL IT, PLACE IT ON A THICK, HEAVY ALUMINUM PAN LINED WITH PARCHMENT PAPER.

EXTEND IT AND CUT IT INTO TWO.

I HAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH WITH THIS.

ACTUALLY, I WILL ONLY USE HALF OF THAT BY THE TIME I HAVE ALL THE TRIMMING AROUND.

SO, THE MORE WATER YOU HAVE IN THE DOUGH, THE MORE ELASTIC THE DOUGH IS GOING TO BE.

AND AT THAT POINT, YOU CAN EXTEND IT VERY, VERY THIN.

NOW LOOK AT THAT, I WANT TO ROLL THIS TO...

I DON'T KNOW, PROBABLY LESS THAN 1/8".

I AM GOING TO CUT ABOUT NOT QUITE IN THE MIDDLE, A BIT OF A SMALLER PIECE HERE.

YOU SEE IT'S A BIT ELASTIC, IT STARTS SHRINKING.

PUTTING IT ON MY COOKIE SHEET, LEAVING THIS ONE ON THE SIDE.

WHAT WE DO HERE, ONE LAYER IN THE BOTTOM AND WE PUT SOMETHING IN BETWEEN, IM USING ALUMINUM FOIL TO HOLD THE DOUGH ON TOP, I'M DOING A BALL WITH IT, I NEED MORE THAN THAT.

YOU CAN USE PARCHMENT PAPER OR WHATEVER.

BUT YOU WANT A BALL ABOUT THAT SIZE, FLAT THAT WE PUT ON TOP HERE.

THE 1/8" THICK RECTANGLE WILL GO ON TOP.

CUT A LITTLE BIT OF THE DOUGH FOR DECORATION.

THEN GENTLY ROLL YOUR DOUGH ON TOP OF THE ROLLING PIN, AND YOU WANT TO WET THE OUTSIDE SO IT WILL GLUE TOGETHER.

YOU CAN USE EGGS, BUT WATER IS PERFECTLY FINE.

LAY THE DOUGH ON TOP.

I ACTUALLY PULL THAT UP AND EXTEND IT TO MAKE LIKE A TENT.

I REALLY USE A MINIMUM AMOUNT OF DOUGH HERE.

I'M GOING TO USE SOMETHING ROUND TO CUT THE DOUGH.

THIS IS THE BOTTOM OF A WOK.

MAYBE A BIT OF FLOUR SO IT DOESN'T STICK.

I CUT IT WITH THIS.

I CAN REMOVE ALL OF THE EXCESS DOUGH.

PRESS THE OUTSIDE WITH A FORK TO BE SURE IT'S GLUES TOGETHER.

PUT THE FORK IN FLOUR SO IT DOESN'T STICK WHEN YOU PRESS.

PRESSING DOWN HELPS TO SEAL THE DOUGH AND ALSO GIVES IT A DECORATIVE EDGE.

WE CAN SEE THE ALUMINUM FOIL UNDERNEATH, SO IT'S VERY, VERY THIN.

I USED ABOUT 5 OZ.

OF DOUGH.

NOW YOU CAN SPEND A LOT OF TIME DECORATING OR YOU CAN PUT IT DIRECTLY IN THE OVEN.

I CAN CUT A LITTLE BIT OF THE SIDE HERE.

THE DOUGH IS STILL SLIGHTLY ELASTIC.

AND THEN OF COURSE, YOU WANT TO GLUE IT WITH SOMETHING.

I USE EGG TO GIVE ME THE SHINE THAT I NEED AND WE BRUSH ALL OF THE DOUGH.

YOU SEE THE DOUGH IS TAUT LIKE A DRUM, THAT WILL PREVENT IT FROM GETTING SOGGY INSIDE.

GLUE THE DECORATION TO THE TOP.

IF YOU WANT A LID, AFTER IT'S COOKED, WE WILL CUT THAT PIECE HERE.

SO YOU WANT TO BE SURE THAT THERE IS A GLAZE ALL OVER.

IT'S MUCH BETTER TO REFRIGERATE IT BEFORE YOU COOK IT.

IF YOU COOK IT TOO FAST, YOU CAN COOK IT NOW, BUT IT TENDS TO SHRINK.

LET THE DOUGH RELAX.

THE BEST WAY IS TO REFRIGERATE IT 30 TO 60 MINUTES BEFORE YOU COOK IT.

THIS TRIUMPH OF PASTRY MAKING IS WELL WORTH YOUR TIME TO MASTER.

THE THINGS TO REMEMBER ARE ABOVE ALL, TAKE YOUR TIME.

AND KEEP EVERYTHING CHILLED, IF THE BUTTER BEGINS TO SOFTEN THE DOUGH IS IMPOSSIBLE TO WORK WITH.

ANOTHER GOOD THING TO REMEMBER IS THAT YOU CAN MAKE YOUR PUFF PASTRY DAYS, WEEKS, EVEN MONTHS IN ADVANCE.

I'VE ACTUALLY HAD SOME IN MY FREEZER FOR TWO YEARS AND IT'S STILL BEAUTIFUL.

CHEF JACQUES IS GOING TO FILL HIS VOL-AU-VENT OR PASTRY CONTAINER WITH BRAISED CALVES SWEETBREADS.

AND HERE'S WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE.

THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF SWEETBREADS, THERE'S THE THROAT AND THE PANCREAS.

WE HAVE THE THROAT SWEETBREADS WHICH IS KIND OF FAT AND LONG.

JACQUES PREFERS THE PANCREAS WHICH ARE 2 LOBES.

BUT WHICHEVER YOU GET, THEY'LL TASTE THE SAME.

SWEETBREADS ARE PERISHABLE, SO WHEN YOU GET THEM, COOK THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

MOST OF THEM NOWADAYS ARE CLEANED AND READY TO COOK.

BUT IF THEY AREN'T A SPOTLESS, PINKY, CREAMY COLOR, YOU'LL HAVE TO SOAK THEM FOR SEVERAL HOURS IN SEVERAL CHANGES OF COLD WATER.

FOR THIS RECIPE, YOU'LL WANT 3 POUNDS OF SWEETBREADS AND YOU'RE TO BLANCH THEM WHICH FIRMS THEM UP SLIGHTLY.

AS YOU CAN SEE, THAT'S FIRM AND THE OTHER WAS SQUASHY.

TO BLANCH THEM, JACQUES SETS THEM IN A PAN OF WATER.

HE BRINGS THEM TO THE BOIL AND BOILS THEM FOR 1 MINUTE.

THEN HE REMOVES THEM TO A BOWL OF ICE WATER UNTIL THEY'RE CHILLED.

THEN HE PICKS THEM OVER TO REMOVE ANY SURFACE SINEWS AND PLACES THEM ON A COOKIE SHEET LINED WITH A CLEAN TOWEL AND SETS A SECOND COOKIE SHEET ON TOP.

HE WEIGHTS IT DOWN WITH SEVERAL CANS OF FOOD OR MILK CARTONS.

REFRIGERATES THEM FOR SEVERAL HOURS AND THEY'RE READY FOR BRAISING.

NOW IS THE TIME TO COOK YOUR SWEETBREADS.

FIRST, PUT 1 OR 2 TABLESPOONS OF BUTTER IN THE PAN.

THE SWEETBREADS HAVE BEEN PRESSED NOW.

SEASON THEM WITH SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER.

IT'S ALWAYS IMPORTANT TO HAVE FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER.

COOK FOR 2, 2 1/2 MINUTES ON EACH SIDE.

WE HAVE 3 POUNDS OF SWEETBREADS WHICH WILL FEED 6 TO 8 PEOPLE.

WHILE THE SWEETBREAD IS BROWNING WE'LL MAKE THE SAUCE.

THE SAUCE IS MADE FROM A BROWN CHICKEN STOCK.

THE BONE IS BROWNED IN THE OVEN WITH WATER, BUT DO NOT SEASON WITH SALT AND PEPPER.

THE BROWN STOCK IS REDUCING TO CREATE THE SAUCE.

REMOVE 1/2 A CUP OF THE STOCK, THIS WILL BE USED IN BRAISING WITH SOME WHITE WINE.

REDUCE THE REMAINING SAUCE TO 2 CUPS.

ADD 1/2 CUP OF MADEIRA TO OUR STOCK.

REMEMBER THAT BY THE TIME IT FINISHES COOKING, MOST OF THE ALCOHOL IS GOING TO BE EVAPORATED, ONLY THE TASTE IS GOING TO REMAIN.

CHECK YOUR SWEETBREADS FOR A NICE, BROWN COLOR.

YOU WANT A LITTLE BIT OF A CRUST ON TOP.

TURN THEM AND COOK FOR ANOTHER 3 TO 4 MINUTES.

YOU WANT THEM BROWN ON EACH SIDE.

THE PROCESS NOW IS TO BRAISE, ADDING THE LIQUID.

THE LIQUID REMEMBER IS 1/2 A CUP OF MY STOCK HERE AND 1/2 A CUP OF DRY WHITE WINE.

COVER AND REDUCE HEAT.

I'M GOING TO BRAISE THAT GENTLY FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES.

AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO CONTINUE THE SAUCE.

REMEMBER, THIS IS STILL REDUCING.

IT'S A VERY LEAN STOCK, THERE IS NO FAT ON TOP.

WE'RE GOING TO ADD VEGETABLES TO GIVE IT A NICE, FRESH TASTE.

I HAVE CELERY, LEEK AND CARROT.

DIFFERENT COLOR AND DIFFERENT TASTE.

FIRST, ADD 2 TABLESPOONS OF BUTTER TO PAN.

EXCEPT FOR THE BUTTER TO SAUTE THE SWEETBREADS, AND OF COURSE, A LITTLE BIT IN THE VEGETABLES, THE STOCK IS VERY LEAN, AND THAT'S WHAT WE WANT.

WE'RE GOING TO DO A SO-CALLED "BRUNOISE", WHICH INDICATES A WAY THE VEGETABLES ARE GOING TO BE CUT.

NICE COLOR, NICE TEXTURE.

I SHOULD HAVE ABOUT ENOUGH HERE.

SO WHAT WE'LL HAVE TO DO IS PUT THAT DIRECTLY WITH OUR BUTTER.

WE WANT TO SAUTE THAT FOR 1 MINUTE OR SO, WE ALSO WANT TO FLAVOR IT WITH FRESH THYME.

THE STEM IS WHAT YOU CAN USE IN THE STOCK, BUT I'LL TAKE THE END OF IT, THE TENDER LEAVES.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE FRESH, DRIED THYME IS QUITE GOOD ALSO.

PUT THAT IN THERE.

WE SAUTE IT, BUT WE DON'T WANT IT TO BROWN.

WE WANT IT TO KIND OF BRAISE.

TO DO THAT WE ADD 1/3 CUP OF WATER.

BRING THAT TO A BOIL, COOK 10 MINUTES COVERED UNTIL BASICALLY THERE IS NO MOISTURE LEFT.

I CAN SEE THAT MY VEGETABLES ARE READY NOW, NO MOISTURE IS LEFT.

THAT'S WHAT I WANT.

THE STOCK HAS REDUCED ALSO TO A RICH BROWN COLOR.

NOW I WILL TASTE IT.

REMEMBER, NO SALT UNTIL THAT TIME.

AND IF I LIKE IT SLIGHTLY DARKER, INSTEAD OF SALT I'LL ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SOY SAUCE.

THE SOY WILL PUT A DASH OF DARKER COLOR TO IT AND AT THE SAME TIME GIVE ME A BIT OF SALT.

THAT'S BASICALLY IT NOW.

WHAT I WANT TO DO NEXT IS ANOTHER TYPE OF FLAVORING, WHICH IS OUR TRUFFLE.

THIS IS REALLY SPLURGING.

I HAVE BLACK TUBERUM MALENOSPORUM.

THIS IS THE REAL BLACK RUFFLE OF PERIGORD.

FIRST, PEEL OFF THE ROUGH SKIN.

I CAN SEE THE INSIDE OF THE TRUFFLE, OR THE MYCELIUM.

I KNOW THE TRUFFLE IS RIPE BY IT'S BROWN, BEIGE COLOR.

THE COLOR INDICATES A RIPE TRUFFLE.

I COARSELY CHOP THE OUTSIDE SKIN AND ADD TO THE SAUCE, BUT I WANT TO ADD IT AT THE LAST MOMENT.

THE REASON IS I DON'T WANT TO LOSE ANY OF THE TASTE.

AND A GREAT AMOUNT OF THE TASTE IS OLFACTORY, THAT IS THE SMELL.

AND IF YOU DO IT TOO LONG AHEAD, YOU LOSE TOO MUCH.

I CHOP THE SKIN COARSELY BECAUSE IT'S A BIT TOUGHER.

WE WANT TO ADD THAT TO OUR SAUCE RIGHT HERE.

AND WITH THAT, WE PUT A LITTLE DASH OF COGNAC, 1 OR 2 TEASPOONS AT THE MOST.

COMBINE OUR BROWN SAUCE WITH THE VEGETABLES.

COVER IT AND LET IT STEEP A LITTLE BIT.

I USE THE REMAINING TRUFFLE FOR DECORATION.

YOU CAN SPLURGE, USE A LITTLE MORE.

I USE A VEGETABLE PEELER TO GET NICE, THIN, SLICES.

PLACE THEM ON TOP OF THE SWEETBREADS FOR DECORATION.

IF THERE ARE PIECES BROKEN YOU CAN ADD THEM TO THE SAUCE.

AND AGAIN, COVERING IT WITH A TINY BIT OF COGNAC.

WE'LL PUT THAT ON TOP OF OUR SWEETBREAD WHEN WE PRESENT IT AT THE END.

AND NOW THE BEST PART, OF COURSE, IS TO SERVE IT.

AS YOU CAN SEE THIS SLIDES VERY NICELY BECAUSE I HAVE PAPER UNDERNEATH.

NOTHING BURNT, BEAUTIFUL COLOR.

I HAVE A BEAUTIFUL BROWN COLOR ALL OVER.

THIS IS VERY LIGHT AND I KNOW IT'S COOKED.

WITH A KNIFE, YOU CAN EVEN HEAR IT, HOW CRISP IT IS, CUT THAT VERY THIN LID.

THE WHOLE THING WILL COME OUT, SOMETIMES THE HAT COMES FIRST.

IF THE FOIL STICKS, PRESS IT TOGETHER AND GENTLY WORK IT AWAY FROM THE CRUST.

OUR SWEETBREADS ARE TOTALLY BRAISED NOW.

AS YOU CAN SEE THERE IS NO LIQUID LEFT.

YOU CAN SERVE THEM WHOLE OR CUT THEM INTO TWO.

LOOK HOW BEAUTIFUL WHITE, CREAMY, COLOR THAT THEY HAVE.

ARRANGE THE SWEETBREADS AROUND THE PUFF.

PLACE ONE SMALL OR LARGE PIECE INSIDE.

THIS IS A RICH DISH, VERY CLASSIC.

BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT STRICTLY WITH SWEETBREADS.

YOU CAN ALSO USE BREASTS OF CHICKEN.

YOU DON'T WANT TO LOSE ALL THE BEAUTIFUL, CRYSTALLIZED JUICE.

THIS IS ACTUALLY WHAT WE CALLED A GLAZE, A PURE REDUCTION.

TAKE SOME OF OUR SAUCE AND RETURN IT TO THE GLAZE.

AND WITH A FLAT, WOODEN SPATULA, SCRAPE.

THIS IS THE PROCESS OF DE-GLAZING.

AND FINALLY I WILL ADD THAT BACK TO THE SAUCE.

IN ADDITION TO THAT, IT WILL CLEAN UP YOUR POT.

GIVE YOU POINTS WITH THE DISHWASHER.

AND NOW MY SAUCE IS READY.

SO I'M GOING TO PUT IT RIGHT ON TOP OF MY SWEETBREADS.

YOU WANT TO DO THAT AT THE LAST MOMENT.

IT MAY GET SLIGHTLY SOGGY IF YOU LEAVE IT ON TOP OF THE DOUGH TOO LONG.

TRYING NOT TO MAKE TO MUCH OF A MESS AROUND, AND I PUT MORE AROUND AND A LITTLE BIT TO MOISTEN IT ON TOP.

THE REST I CAN PUT DIRECTLY INTO A SAUCE BOAT.

RETURN THE LID TO THE PUFF, ALLOWING A LITTLE BIT OF YOUR SWEETBREADS TO SHOW.

YOU COULD USE THYME FOR COLOR.

AND REMEMBER, WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE FLAVORFUL, SLICED, FRESH TRUFFLE.

IF YOU CAN NOT AFFORD THE TRUFFLE OR DON'T WANT TO USE IT, IT'S PERFECTLY FINE.

AND IF YOU DON'T WANT TO USE SWEETBREADS, USE CHICKEN.

AND FROM A BROWN SAUCE IT COULD ALSO BE A WHITE SAUCE.

THIS IS REALLY A MARVELOUS DISH, THAT TENDER PASTRY, THOSE MELTINGLY, SUBTLE SWEETBREADS.

AND THAT MEATY, WINEY, TRUFFLEY, WONDERFUL SAUCE.

I'M BEING RATHER WILDLY SUPERLATIVE, BUT IT'S SUCH A RARE TREAT TO EAT SOMETHING LIKE THIS.

AND NOW HAVING STUDIED WITH JACQUES PEPIN, WE ALL KNOW HOW TO DO IT OURSELVES.

FOR COOKING WITH MASTER CHEFS, THIS IS JULIA CHILD.

BON APPETIT.

Julia Child: Bon Appétit